Crochet water bottle carrier free pattern

With spring approaching outdoor activities approach too. This year, I’M NOT CARRYING EVERYTHING IN MY PURSE. The heaviest items are the water bottles so I bought 2 kid sized bottles and now I’m crocheting little bottle purses for the kids.

Here’s the pattern I based my project on: http://vallieskids.blogspot.ca/2009/05/16oz.html

There were a few glitches in the pattern so I re-wrote parts of it and added a strap of my own invention.

She used a G hook, but I used a K {6.50 mm} to get the right size for my bottle. I used Bernat handicrafter yarn and one bottle carrier will use one ball of yarn. The water bottle is 6 in tall and 2.5 in in diameter.

Rnd 1) Ch 2. 10 double crochet in 2nd ch from hook, slip st to first double crochet.
Rnd 2) Ch 2 (this did not count as my first double crochet). 2 double crochet in next st and each st around, sl to first double crochet
Rnd 3) Ch 2, double crochet in same st, *2 double crochet in next st, double crochet in next st* rep *to* around, sl st to first dc

Rnd 4) Ch1, sc in same st. *sc in each back loop* rep *to* around, sl to first sc

Rnd 5) Ch 1, sc in same st, *ch2, skip next st, sc in next st*, rep *to* around.
Rnd 6-22 or however tall you need to make your bottle carrier. It’s best to measure this with a full water bottle since the crochet will stretch a bit.) You may want to put a row marker here. I didn’t. * ch2, sc in next ch2 space, repeat from * around.
Rnd 23) Ch1, *sc in each sc and ea ch2 space* rep *to* around,
Rnd 24-25) Ch1, *sc in ea sc* around. End with sl st but do not fasten off.

Strap
Row 1: Ch 1, turn. Sc in next 6 sc.
Row 2: Ch 4, turn. Trc in 2nd sc from hook, ch 1, trc in 2nd sc fr hook, ch 1, trc in 2nd ch fr hook.
Row 3: Ch 4, turn. Trc in ch-1 space, ch1, trc in ch-1 sp, ch 1, trc in ch-1 sp.

Repeat Row 3 until strap measures desired length.

Finish
Sc strap end to bottle holder. Weave in ends.

crochet water bottle carrier

crochet water bottle carrier

The water bottle is full so you can see the full effect of the stretch.

I chose to make a netting like strap because I didn’t want a solid one that my kids would sweat under.

Small Knit purse free pattern

i made this for my 3.75 year old daughter and her new lipgloss

i made this for my 3.75 year old daughter and her new lipgloss


Not quite sure I can copyright this pattern since I took the pattern for the flap from my big book of knitting patterns (The Knitting Dictionary by Rhoda Ochser Goldberg). I would ask that you give me credit for the dimensions and put together and link back to this blog. Please don’t use this pattern to make purses to sell.

The Flap
Using 4.5 mm needles, cast on 26 sts. I used a double yarn of sorts, the purple yarn entwined with a very, very thin crochet yarn I will never use because I can’t work that small. It adds a certain je ne sais quoi to the purple yarn though.
EYELET LACE BORDER PATTERN, knit these 4 rows 7 times.
Row 1: P
Row 2: P
Row 3: P
Row 4: (Yo, sl 1, K1, psso) rep to end.

Row 29-34: P

If you’re trying to knit this seemingly simple pattern while the kids are hanging off you giving you the play by play of “The Incredibles” then I would advise you to chant the last line out loud: “Yarn, slip, knit, pass. Yarn, slip, knit, pass. etc”

Purse Pattern
Row 1: K1, (K5, P1) to last st, K1
Row 2-6: beg P row, st st 5 rows (end P row)
Row 7: K3, P1 (K5, P1) to last 4 sts, K4 sts.
Row 8-12: beg P row, st st 5 rows (end P row)

Repeat these 12 rows another 4 times
Seed st (K1, P1, then on next row K the K sts and P the P sts) 5 rows.
Cast off K wise. Sew sides together.

Handle
I wanted a strong, double layer, seamless handle, made up this pattern myself so it’s copyrighted Anna Merlini.
If this is your first kick at the can of this pattern, then you probably don’t want to be trying to do it with a double yarn.
1ST PIECE
Using 4.5 mm needles, cast on 5 sts.
St st until piece is desired length but slip the first st of every row.
Cast off K wise

2ND PIECE
I couldn’t keep up with the st st, so this is just garter stitch.
Cast on 5 sts.
K every row but K2 tog at beg and end of row with the slipped stitch of the first piece.
Cast off and attach ends to purse.

The purse is roughly 8 inches long and 6 inches high.

Crochet hobo purse free pattern

I was school supply shopping the other day when I saw the purse of the girl in front of me and gasped. It was a purse-sized hobo bag, exactly what I had been wanting to make for the new wallet I designed. An easy, out for the day, possibly with the kids, affair.

Crochet hobo bag purse with button closure

Crochet hobo bag purse with button closure

You’ll have to forgive how awkward the bag looks, I don’t know how to pose for pictures, let alone set up a purse for a picture.
The button and button strap is sewn on in the middle of the bag even if it doesn’t look so. Normally I would sling the bag further back behind me but I put it on my side for the pictures.

I made the 2 sides green and the strap a multi-green. You can see how the hobo bag rises in the back from the “shape top” part of the pattern

I found this pattern http://www.redheart.com/free-patterns/crochet-hobo-bag

and modified it to suit my needs. The modifications are copyrighted by me, Anna Merlini. You can use the pattern but give me credit for it and link back to this blog. You can’t use the modified pattern to make bags to sell.

Crochet hobo purse pattern

I used a J crochet hook and 3 balls of Bernat yarn.

Special stitch
sc2tog (sc dec)
= Insert hook into st and draw up a loop.
Insert hook into next st and draw up a loop. Yarn over,
draw through all 3 loops on hook.

BAG (Make 2 alike)
Ch 27.
Row 1 (Right Side): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next ch, [2 sc in next ch, sc in next 2 ch] 8 times – 34 sc.
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across.
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in first sc, sc across to last sc, 2 sc in last sc – 36 sc.
Rows 4-13: Repeat Rows 2-3 for 5 more times – 46 sc.
Rows 14-16: Repeat Row 2.
Row 17: Repeat Row 3 – 48 sc.
Repeat Rows 14-17 twice more – 52 sc.
Repeat Row 2 three times.

SHAPE TOP
Row 1: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 18 sc, slip st in next sc. Leave remaining sts unworked.
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, skip slip st and next sc, slip st in next sc, sc across – 16 sc.
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc to last sc, slip st in last sc – 15 sc.
Rows 4-7: Repeat Rows 2-3 twice more – 9 sc.
Rows 8-10: Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across.
Fasten off.

FINISHING
Sew Front and Back together along bottom and side edges.

Strap (made in 2 halves)
Row 1: With right side facing, join yarn in first sc on last row of one Top edge, ch 1, work 18 sc across both sides of Top edge.
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in first sc, sc2tog, sc across to last 3 sc, sc2tog, sc in last sc – 16 sc.
Repeat Row 2 until 4 sc rem.
Rem Rows: Ch 1, turn, sc in ea sc until Strap is almost as long as you want it to be.

Increase Rows:
Ch 1, turn, sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc across to last 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in last sc until you have 18 sc.

Last Row:
Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across.
Fasten off, leaving a long end for sewing.
Sew end of Strap to last row of opposite Top edge.

To double up strap and add strength
Ch 19
Row 1: starting in 2nd ch fr hook, sc in each ch -18 sc.
Row 2: Ch 1, work 18 sc across both sides of Top edge.
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in first sc, sc2tog, sc across to last 3 sc, sc2tog, sc in last sc – 16 sc.
Repeat Row 2 until 4 sc rem.
Rem Rows: Ch 1, turn, sc in ea sc until Strap is as long as original strap.

Increase rows:
Ch 1, turn, sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc across to last 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in last sc until you have 18 sc.
Ch 1, turn, sc in ea sc across. Fasten off and leave a really really long end to sew this second strap to the bag and to the existing strap.

Button closure strap
Ch 6, leaving a long tail to sew strap to purse.
Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc in ea sc. 5 sc.
Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc. Repeat this row until piece is one inch long.
Ch 1, turn, sc in first sc, ch 3, skip next 3 sc, sc in last sc.
Ch 1, turn, sc in first sc, 3 sc in button hole, sc in last sc.
Ch 1, turn, sc in ea sc. Fasten off.
Sew strap to top of bag, outside right for me because that’s how I like to wear the bag cross-body.
Sew button to outside of other side of bag, opposite button hole piece.

PS- Turns out that this bag is the perfect size for all the victuals you might need for a bike ride with a small child too.

Crochet purse free pattern

After finishing the messenger bag for my son, and in the interest of fairness, I wanted to make something for my daughter.  She’s a little more, shall we say, fussy about the things I make; they need to be fashionable, not just made with any old yarn in any old colour.  I asked her what colour she wanted and she said “pink”. 

I used Sugar n Cream worsted 100% cotton yarn and a #4, 4.0 mm crochet hook.  I’ve included a domino so you can get an idea of the size.  Leave a long tail on your cast on stitch to sew the bottom together when you’re done.

Note of caution:  when you sew the bottom together make sure the seam is parallel with the handles, not perpendicular.

Here’s the pattern I used.

Granny Stripe Boutique Bag

MATERIALS LIST:
Worsted Weight Yarn
Size U.S. I/9 (5.50mm)

STITCH COMBINATIONS:
Shell is “work 3 dc in same st or sp.”
Beginning Shell is “work ch 3, 2 dc in same st or sp.”

TIPS:
Join all rounds.
Do not turn after rounds on the bag.

Starting out: Ch 51.

Row 1: Work 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook. Continue working sc in each ch st to end. Join w/ sl st in 1st sc. (50 sc) You will now be working in rounds.
Rnd 1: Work Beginning Shell in same st as join. {Skip 2 stitches, then work Shell in the next st.} Repeat between {} around. Join in top of ch 3. (17 Shells)
Rnd 2: Sl St in each dc of shell into sp between first two shells. Work Beginning Shell. {Work Shell in space between next shell.} Repeat between {} to end. Join in top of ch 3. (17 Shells)
Rnd 3-8: Repeat round 2.
Rnd 9-10: Ch 1. Sc in next st and in each st to end. Join in top of first sc. (50 sc)
Rnd 11: Ch 1. Sc in next 5 st. Ch 15. Count 15 and attach to 16th sc. Sc in next 9 st. Ch 15. Count 15 and attach to 16th sc. Sc in next 4 stitches. Join in top of first sc. (50 sc)
Rnd 12: Ch 1. Sc in next st and in each st across including each ch stitch to end. Join in top of first sc. (50 sc)
Rnd 13-14: Ch 1. Sc in next st and in each st to end. Join in top of first sc.

Finish off. Whip stitch bottom seam of bag together. Weave in ends. 

http://www.tangledhappy.com/2010/11/granny-stripe-boutique-bag.html

Large knit messenger bag free pattern

I finally finished the large messenger bag I was knitting for my son’s stuffed fruit collection.  I thought it would never end.  I do know better, I am not good at making large crafts, somewhere after the first panel I lose my oomph.  Three days is all it should take, within my lifestyle, to make something.

 I didn’t do the weave stitch mentioned in the pattern since it was supremely annoying.  I have a book of knitting patterns and just picked one to try.

I didn’t knit a very long strap since Son is only 4.  I gave the strap a nice edge by slipping the first stitch of every row.  It’s just a garter stitch strap.  Here’s the pattern I used.

Messenger Bag Pattern

by Cate Garagan  http://www.theanticraft.com/archive/lugh08/babayaga.htm

Finished Measurements

9″/22.5cm H x 11″/27.5cm W x 4.5″/11.25cm D
Designed to hold a pattern or a magazine easily without folding, but yet not be too large or unwieldy.

Materials

  • Hemp for Knitting Allhemp 6 [100% hemp; 165yd/150m per 3.5oz/100g skein]; color: 102 Aubergine; 5 skeins
  • 1 set US #5/3.75mm straight needles (circular, if you prefer)
  • Tapestry needle
  • 2 magnetic snaps
  • Fabric and thread for lining (optional, though recommended)

Gauge

24 sts and 28 rows make 4″/10cm in stockinette stitch.

Design Notes

 Special Stitches

DW (double wrap): Done on WS only. Move yarn to back of work. Slip two stitches from left needle to right needle. Move yarn to front of work. Slip two stitches from right needle back to left needle. Move yarn to back of work again. Slip two stitches back to right needle from left needle.

Weave Stitch:
Row 1 (RS): Knit all stitches.
Row 2 (WS): P1, *DW, p2* repeat to last stitch, p1.
Row 3: Knit all stitches
Row 4: P1 *p2, DW* repeat to last stitch, p1.

Directions

Front Panel

CO 74 sts.

Work in Weave Stitch until piece measures 9 inches from cast on edge. Make note of the number of rows, you will need this later.

BO on a knit row.

Back/Top/Front Flap (worked as a single piece)

CO 74 sts.

Work in Weave Stitch until piece measures 20 inches from cast on edge.

BO on a knit row.

Bottom Gusset/Side Gussets/Strap (worked as a single piece)
CO 28 sts.

Work in stockinette until piece measures 11 inches from cast on edge.

Switch to Weave Stitch, and continue until piece measure 9 inches from start of Weave Stitch section. Note: you should have exactly the same number of rows in this section (just the Weave Stitch section) at this point as you have in the front panel. This is important, take the time to count.

Taper down to strap section as follows: on knit rows, k1, ssk, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1. Keep the wrong side rows in the weave pattern as written, being careful to keep it matched and consistent with the previous rows. Continue making decreases on knit rows until 12 stitches remain.

Resume Weave Stitch as written in notes section for 36 inches from end of taper section, or for as long as you would like the strap to be.

Increase back to second side as follows: on knit rows k1, m1 into next stitch, knit to last stitch, m1, k1. Maintain Weave Stitch pattern in the wrong side rows, again, being careful to keep it matched and consistent with the previous rows. Continue working increases in knit rows until back to 28 stitches.

Resume Weave Stitch as written in notes section for a further 9 inches (again, keeping the number of rows on this side section the same as the number of rows in the front panel, and the previous side section.) BO on a knit row.

Finishing

Being careful not to twist, sew the cast-on edge of the bottom/sides/strap piece to the bind-off edge of the same piece. Next, sew the cast-on edge of the front panel to one side of the stockinette section of the bottom/sides/strap piece. Being careful to match rows, attach the sides of the front panel to the side sections of the bottom/side/strap piece.

Next sew the bind-off edge of back/top/front flap section to the other side of the stockinette section of the bottom/sides/strap piece. As with the front piece, sew the sides of the back to the side sections of the bottom/sides/strap piece, being careful to match the rows. Weave in the ends. Block.

Attach magnetic snaps, following manufacturer’s directions, to the front flap and front panel pieces of the bag in desired locations. Line the bag as desired.